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February 27, 2007

We live, we learn

No, I haven't dropped off the face of the Earth. I've just been skiing.

I never fool myself into thinking I know it all, though it's easy to approach that level of delusion when cranking out a pair of socks every other month or so. Really, what else is there to learn about socks? I've knit high ones and low ones, plain and fancy ones, lacy and cabled ones...

Smack!!!

That's the sound of the knitting goddess smacking the hubris right out of me!

Check out that heel! Now that's new! After hailing the Nancy, I cracked open one of her testaments and learned that this is called a square heel (in contrast to the round heel I typically work). And it's not just a different name - it fits differently, too! I think it's more snug, though it's hard to tell without wearing the sock for a bit. I will have to rely on my grandma to tell me how she likes it.

I suspect many of you are familiar with the square heel, but honestly, this is the first time it's registered in my mind. Cool!

And with that, I cast on for the second Canal du Midi sock. No fewer than three times... because "modifying the pattern ever so slightly" doesn't mean I should forgo jotting down the mods. Oops! I had to do a bit of deconstructing to figure out what I had tweaked. We live, we learn.

At least I've marked where I stopped the ribbing and where I started the heel. For now. Until I forget the meaning of those stitch markers and get rid of them out of habit :).

Posted by Kathy at 11:23 PM | Comments (33)

February 23, 2007

My people

At a time when the muggle-trocity of this world seems so senselessly rampant, it's reassuring to know that at least we have each other - my people will listen to me, I know this much for sure. Maybe they won't be able to do anything about my problem other than sympathize (or disagree), but they will listen.

When I suggested to Skacel that they should consider manufacturing a circular needle geared towards lace knitters, I honestly did not expect more than an acknowledgment of my plea. Something along the lines of, "we understand, and we'll consider it" was all I could ask for. Never in a million years did I imagine that a little post on my little blog (plus threads I started on several knitting forums) could propel the launch of a whole new line of needles!

But I'm not the only one to "blame" for this episode. You... you, my people, listened and took action right along with me. More than one thousand of you e-mailed Karin Skacel Haack expressing your shared desire for something geared towards lace knitters. You! Not me! You!

And for this, I thank you, from the bottom of my heart. What a contrast to Yarn Harlot's list of 'idiotic muggle behavior'! Do you think that if every knitter planning to attend a Harlot signing at a bookstore called ahead of time, the muggles would set up more than 14 chairs? I think so! I know so! When Ms. YH came to Boston in April 2006, and Porter Square Books had every potential attendee call and make a reservation, the signing was promptly moved from the petite (but wonderful) bookstore to a huge hall across the street.

We have the power. We have the numbers. We can propel the launch of a new needle line, f'chrisakes! We can fill a 750 person auditorium ten times over!!! We can rule the world!

Okay, maybe I'm taking this a bit far :).

Ahem.

The reviews of the new Addi 'Lace' circs are starting to pour in (read what Cat Bordhi, Clara Parkes, and May Yan have to say), and I personally cannot wait to give them a try! As you know, I hesitate to embrace the KnitPicks needles wholeheartedly, so I'm more interested in comparing the new Addis to my current faves for lace knitting, Inox Express (if they only came in sizes smaller than 2.75 mm... sigh!).

I'll certainly let you know what I think once I get my filthy paws on them :). For now, I will write another letter.

(Karin Skacel Haack, karin@skacelknitting.com, Vice President, Skacel Collection, Inc., (425) 291-9600... just in case you're in a writing mood as well :)).


February 23, 2007
Subject: new Addi 'Lace' line of circular needles

Dear Ms. Skacel Haack,

My name is Kathy XXXXX, and I'm a passionate knitter in Cambridge, MA, USA. I contacted you in July 2006 upon learning that your company was entertaining the notion of manufacturing circular needles like the Addi Turbos, but with pointier tips, specifically with lace knitting in mind. To give my suggestion a small boost, I posted my letter to you on my blog, http://www.grumperina.com/knitblog, and urged other knitters to contact you, too, if they were so inclined.

I was shocked to hear that you received over 1000 letters supporting the idea of Lace Addi Turbos! This fact speaks volumes about the power of the knitting community. Furthermore, if your products weren't impressive enough before, I have gained a whole new level of respect for the Skacel Collection and its willingness to listen, try out new ideas, and launch a demanded product in such a short amount of time. I thank you for stellar customer interaction even more than for the new needle line. I am certain other knitters share my gratitude.

Last, I want to thank you for maintaining the regular Addi Turbo line without changes, since it continues to be the needle of choice for many knitters, including me.

So far, the reviews of Lace Addi Turbo needles are more than positive, and I personally cannot wait to give them a try on my next lace project! I await their appearance at my local yarn shops with great anticipation.

Until then, sincerely yours,
Kathy XXXXX
grumperina@gmail.com
617-XXX-XXXX

Posted by Kathy at 10:23 AM | Comments (59)

February 22, 2007

Predictable

Another thing I mentioned on Guido's podcast is a new pair of socks for my grandma: Canal du Midi from Nancy Bush's Knitting on the Road.

Oops! (again)

I blabbed all about it, but I hadn't even cast on!

Considering my latest guilty admission, I know you aren't surprised.

Over the past few days, I rectified the sticky mess I had gotten myself into, and now I'm nearing completion of sock #1. Good save!

I chose to knit this pattern because I loved making Traveler's Stockings from the same book, and twist stitches figure prominently in both designs. Coincidentally, my grandma ended up giving her Traveler's Stockings to my great aunt (with my full consent), so this latest pair will restore her sock drawer to its proper state (overflowing, ahem).

It's curious that I haven't seen too many Canal du Midi socks out there... though Carolyn has knit a pair, of course. I think the photo in the book is to blame - they just don't look fabulous in it, almost like they still need to be blocked.

One look at the chart, however, and the potential is instantly realized - these will be cute, no doubt about it! Wouldn't you know it, the chart didn't lie.

I did modify the pattern ever so slightly: got rid of the small band of ribbing at the top, and added a few stitches in the center panel where I thought they'd balance the design. Nothing major.

The needles are my favorite US 0 Susan Bates, the yarn is my favorite Lorna's Laces Shepherd Sock in the denim colorway, purchased from my favorite LL supplier. Predictable? Who, me?!? :)


Posted by Kathy at 12:03 PM | Comments (33)

February 20, 2007

Outed

On Guido's podcast I mentioned that I recently decided to update my jewelry, and have become interested in working with wire and beads for that purpose.

Oops!

As soon as the words left my mouth, I regretted blabbing about it. Sure, I'm interested, but haven't gone beyond buying some basic supplies. But now that it was out there for the whole world to hear, I guess I had to give it a try.

It all started when I came across an old pair of earrings:

I love everything about these - the simplicity, the scale, the way the shape looks against my face - but I hate the posts. I like French or fishhook wire much more. I reasoned it shouldn't be too difficult to switch out the posts, and I'd get much more wear out of these earrings.

Armed with a basic jewelry tool set (always check for a coupon!), the book Making Wire Jewelry and More, and some supplies from Beadworks, I did a bit more than just upgrade the posts:

I also finally wrapped up these pretty lilac stones I've had sitting around:

Let me posit this to you: wire and beadwork is not complicated, but it takes some finesse to make it look professional. Yes or no?

Anyway, I enjoyed fiddling around with all the tools, found Making Wire Jewelry a great beginner's guide (briolettes? I'm the queen of briolettes!), and like the end results enough to wear my new pairs of earrings. I look forward to making more jewelry and sharpening my skills! Next time I may even use real sterling silver wire... though considering I wasted a good yard for 4 small briolettes, maybe the really nice stuff isn't for me just yet ;).

Posted by Kathy at 09:29 PM | Comments (46)

February 17, 2007

Her Royal Highness, Nancy Bush

Why am I showing a picture of these sweets?!?

When Amy submitted the 550th pair of Jaywalkers to be added to the gallery, I was thrilled that she selected a sock pattern book as her prize! (Also, 550 JWs??? Pinch me, I'm dreaming!) Unfortunately, it took me more than a month to get Amy the book I had in mind, Knitting Vintage Socks by Nancy Bush. Boo on me! These additional goodies are a small and humble attempt to sweeten her up a bit - mea culpa :).

Please don't be discouraged by my lateness, and keep submitting your FOs - there's a prize to be had for every 50th Jaywalker to be added! Seriously! Right now there are 573 JWs in the gallery, with a small queue waiting to be added. Very close to 600, my friends :). (some submission guidelines here).

Speaking of Nancy Bush and Knitting Vintage Socks...

In case you didn't get enough of my voice the first time around, Guido has once again let me crash his podcast, It's a Purl, Man! I had such a great time chatting with him.

Some of the things I said may have been a little... silly :). I may or may not have said, "All Hail the Nancy Bush!" and praised bamboo as the ultimate renewable resource. Oops!

For your silly Grumperina fix, visit Guido's blog!

Posted by Kathy at 06:38 PM | Comments (32)

February 15, 2007

A geek with style

Let me tell you this - sewing gives "instant gratification" a whole new meaning.

I had an utterly craptastic day yesterday. Oh, don't worry - I'm fine, my family and friends are fine, my personal and professional lives are just dandy... but what the hell is up with this weather?!? I thought nothing, nothing could be worse than my walk to work yesterday, when the shit of hell itself was falling down from the sky, bombarding me from every direction. But I was wrong! My walk back home at the end of the day was a ballet through an icy slurry, leaping from this pile of ice to the next, and still ending up cold and wet from head to toe.

Ug.

I got home, changed my clothes, and thought, "I don't want to knit right now. In order to lift my mood, I want a finished project by the end of the night! Sewing to the rescue!"

I'm a big fan of totes - so simple, yet so practical! I have at least 3 or 4, but always reach for my favorite: a simple cotton one with thin, long-ish straps. I don't know what it is about this one that makes it different, but the size always seems to be right, and the straps always stay on my shoulder. Love it!

But, there's a slight problem:

Nothing screams "geek" like a tote proudly announcing that I'm a member of the Society for Neuroscience to every passerby!

Upgrade? I think so! For several weeks now I've envisioned a perfect tote upgrade, and yesterday was the perfect day to crank out a little cuteness.

Tada! I absolutely adore this bag! If it looks familiar, it's because I used fabric and piping left over from my June Cleaver apron.

I didn't use a pattern and made this very much freeform - just my fabric, a ruler, a rotary cutter, and the SfN tote to use as a guideline. I'm especially proud to have conceived and created this project without the help of my sewing teacher, and using my own tools and sewing machine. Finished in one night, too! Very gratifying.

I'm starting to feel very confident about sewing, and I think my teacher will be delighted with my construction and finishing when I show this to her.

As for the details, there aren't too many to report. The upper portion of the bag is fully lined, and the lower is joined with a slight ruffling. Overall, I gave the bag a slight pear shape - I don't like my stuff to be visible to the whole world.

And the geeky tote? There's a time and place for everything, so I'm holding on to it. However, when prancing around downtown this weekend, I'll be using my upgrade :).

Posted by Kathy at 08:55 AM | Comments (91)

February 12, 2007

Hot mess at the end of my rainbow

Pattern: based on Brilliant Retro by Teva Durham, Interweave Knits Winter 2005.

Yarn: Classic Silk by Classic Elite, 50% cotton, 30% silk, 20% nylon, in #6947/cobalt. I used only 7 skeins! The yardage of this stuff is incredible!

Extras: some Lorna's Laces Shepherd Sock for seaming, 20" zipper, grosgrain ribbon for zipper backing.

Needles: Addi Turbo circs, US 6.

Finished dimensions: bust 38", waist 34", hip 38", length to armhole 16", depth of armhole 7.5", sleeve length 19".

Gauge: about 4.5 stitches and 7 rows per inch.

I'm very pleased with the way this sweater turned out - it's nice and fitted, but long enough to cover my belly. As always, I paid extra attention to the armholes and sleeve caps - bat wings, or lack thereof, are my personal pet peeve.

Putting in a zipper took a bit more effort than buttons, but it's so nice to not have a gaping button band. SO nice. I think the zipper went in relatively smoothly, without obvious bulges.

   

(click for bigger)

What more can I tell you about this sweater? I feel like I've already written a tome!

  1. My mods and the reasons behind them.
  2. The prospect of following a design rather than a pattern (with a brief note about Annie's edging).
  3. Blocking and seaming: is there a logical order?
  4. Installing the zipper.
  5. The technicalities of seaming.

Oh, right, right... there is this one itty bitty last detail I have to share. Eeeetey beeeetey....

But first you have to promise me two things: (1) that you are sitting down as you read this, and (2) that you have your sedative of choice nearby (wine, benzodiazepines, whatever). Because I have already freaked out for the both of us.

Okay, ready?

Brilliant Retro needs a new zipper.

As I readied my sweater for its reveal, I fired up the iron to give it a quick once-over. Specifically, I wanted to go over the grosgrain ribbons to smooth them out, which worked spectacularly! But while ironing the ribbons, I somehow managed to go over the plastic zipper, melting its teeth. It took a lot of effort to close the disfigured zipper for the photos, and it's a miracle the cardi didn't pop open while I took and processed the pictures. And now... well, now the zipper has no intentions of opening. Ever again.

Gulp.

I take this as a sign from the Heavens (and Claudia) that I should upgrade to a matching zipper from Zipperstop. Though I kind of liked the contrasting cream... Anyway, several blue-ish zippers have been ordered, along with a color card for future reference.

Why all this trouble? I think this is the most wearable sweater I've ever knit.

Posted by Kathy at 10:52 PM | Comments (119)

February 11, 2007

Defeating the purpose

It's happened only a few times so far - a fully finished object appears, seemingly out of the blue. No swatches, no turmoils, no ripping... voilà! Here it is! I concocted it out of thin air! While I was sleeping!

Yeah, right.

All of the headache and heartache is behind the scenes, and simply doesn't make it to the blog for one reason or another - gift, publication, shortage of time. Defeats the purpose of a knitting journal, don't you think? This is where we record all our thoughts and observations, chronicle the birth and development of every project.

Alas, reality isn't always ideal, and sometimes we're forced to read the final chapter before devouring the full story.

The final chapter:

Pattern: design based on a Komi mitten pattern in Charlene Schurch's Mostly Mittens, p.66. Figuring out all the other details was my own doing.

Yarn: Louet Gems sportweight, 100% superwash merino; one 50g skein of each 16/indigo, 57/French blue, and 50/sage; two 50g skeins of 43/pewter; pewter was the dominant color throughout.

Needles: US 2 Susan Bates 16" circular and Boye dpns.

Gauge: stranded colorwork: 7.5 stitches and 8 rounds per inch; single-color stockinette: 5 stitches and 10 rounds per inch.

Finished dimensions: approximately 22" in circumference and 8.5" deep.

The full story:

I'm not sure why I never got around to posting about this project. It certainly took me a while to knit it, plenty of time to snap a photo and make a formal introduction. I guess other discussions took precedence - while working on this hat, I also completed grandma's beret, my Brilliant Retro (nope, not done seaming yet), and one other project which I'm saving for a future date.

Now let's take a step back.

Mostly Mittens is a treasury of Komi patterns, from the Komi region of Northern Russia. The stitch patterns are very angular in nature, and allow stunning color combinations and transitions. In this book, the patterns are showcased in the form of mittens, though Komi hats, sweaters, socks, and other knitted objects are also breathtaking.

Several patterns from this book have always spoken to me, especially those with a uniform main color overlaid on a subtly-changing background (or vice versa). So, when an opportunity to knit a Komi hat presented itself, I immediately agreed, reasoning I could transform one of those lovely mitten patterns into a hat pattern.

I settled on mitten pattern #20, p.66 (you can see a picture here), and made the following changes:

  • placed 4 mitten patterns side by side, which added up to a circumference of a hat
  • changed the shape of the mitten chart to better fit a head
  • altered the pattern to be worked from the crown down, allowing me to stop when the hat was just the right depth (remember the extra Papal rounds?)
  • used 3 background colors instead of 4 - Louet Gems proved to be a great choice for this project: wonderful color palette, every skein was uniform thickness, and stranded knitting was a breeze

Once I completed the stranded part of the hat, I knit a turning round, and decreased about 30% of the stitches for the lining. Seems like a lot, doesn't it? Well, the hat is pleasantly loose on the head, not my typical beanie at all, and the lining needed to be significantly smaller to keep the hat snugly on the head. Plus, we all know that gauge differs between knitting with one color, and stranded knitting (specifically, stranded knitting is more dense). So, I needed to decrease even more than expected to make up for the difference in gauge.

After knitting the lining for a good 3", I cast-off loosely (in purl: rolls less), and liberally whip-stitched the lining into place. Liberally because the circumference of the lining is smaller than that of the hat, and I didn't want the point of attachment to draw in the stranded fabric any more than it had to.

The end result - hat stays on, keeps the ears entirely warm, and the lining is inconspicuous from the outside.


Posted by Kathy at 06:26 PM | Comments (66)

February 09, 2007

Shush!

While everyone else is coughing their lungs out with nasty colds and flues, I seem to be suffering from an extreme case of logorrhoea: I've written more than 3000 words in the last three entries.

Today I will shut up, and share a picture as part of Eye Candy Friday:

tabby.jpg

Tell me, is there anything more spectacular than the fur ripples of a tabby kitty? :)

Posted by Kathy at 10:11 AM | Comments (53)

February 08, 2007

Yarn is just like a curtain rod

As I continued to piece together the Brilliant Retro, I realized that perhaps my seaming technique is different than other folks'. When I was a young and naive knitter (a whopping 2 years ago), I followed the recommended seaming procedures and did perfectly fine. But over the years (ha!) I've started to deviate from the dogma ever so slightly, and I thought I'd share with you my current seaming protocol.

In the interest of making this more of a discussion than a tutorial (because seaming is seaming, and I'm definitely not reinventing the wheel here), feel free to share you seaming deviations in the comments. What do you do differently than everyone else?

1. Selvedges When knitting stockinette or mostly-stockinette, I don't treat edge stitches any differently than the rest of the knit fabric. I've tried slipping every first stitch, knitting every first stitch, and so on, but have come to the conclusion that it doesn't help me one way or another, and just adds one more thing to remember. Therefore, on the right side, I knit all the stitches, including the edge stitches, and purl all the stitches on the wrong side.

Now, if the edge isn't going to be hidden in a seam, it's a whole different story! Slipped stitches, seed stitch, picot edging, Annie Modesitt's modified i-cord edging... I love it all! If I'm looking for new ideas, I can always consult my Montse - Edges and selvedges, pp. 181-186.

2. Seaming allowances My edge stitches are always a bit wonky, and I like to hide all the irregularities inside the seam. In my case, this requires allotting 1 full stitch on each edge to be eaten up by the seam. Once in a while, especially when knitting a rather dense fabric, I can get away with 1/2 stitch on each side, but I usually don't temp fates and stick to 1 full stitch. I always include the extra stitches in my calculations - if I determine my sweater's front needs to be 100 stitches wide, I cast on 102.

With respect to ribbing, I like to put the seam between two knit stitches. I bet this is not universal, though. For me it results in the most invisible seam, as deduced through trial and error, nothing more. So, on the right side, I'd work something like k2, *p2, k2*, then eat up a knit stitch from each edge when I seamed.

What about the added bulk in the seams? Isn't that a good enough reason to take in a half of a stitch rather than a full one? Generally, I allow myself to be totally reckless with my knitting (oh, the hubris!) and iron the seams to make them flat (e.g., my Pentagon Pullover). I'm absolutely convinced that ironing the seams makes the wearer seem 10 pounds lighter.

The one instance where I seriously ponder the bulky seam situation is baby garments. If the whole sweater is 40 stitches wide, even a stellar ironing job can't hide 2 stitches in each seam. While I'm not a huge fan of knitting adult sweaters in one piece, it makes more sense with baby stuff, don't you think? They're just a big pile of puddin' anyway :).

3. Placement of increases/decreases Considering 1 stitch is eaten up by the seam, I typically place my increases and decreases 2 stitches away from the edge: k2, k2tog, knit to last 4 sts, SSK, k2... or, k2, m1left, knit to last 2 sts, m1right, k2.

4. Seaming yarn As I noted in my last post, I don't always use the pattern yarn for seaming. I think the most important characteristic of a yarn used for seaming is smoothness. When using mattress stitch (aka, ladder stitch, invisible seam, weaving, or vertical grafting), the seaming thread is almost perfectly vertical, meandering just a tiny bit to catch the running threads. Meaning, you can pull at one end of the thread, and the other end will retreat/shorten. This allows wonderful precision when it comes to the length and tautness of your seams if the seaming thread doesn't give you any beef when you tug on it. Anything nubbly, hairy, or prone to breaking doesn't strike me as a good yarn to use for seaming. Just ask yourself, "will this give me any trouble as I pull it through hundreds of inter-stitch spaces?"

5. Actual protocol Now we're getting to the truly unorthodox :).

Many people leave long tails of yarn when casting on, and then use those lengths of yarn to complete the seaming. As long as the yarn is smooth (see #4 above), I see nothing wrong with that strategy. I myself used to do that all the time, and still dabble in it once in a while - 3-needle bind-off at the shoulders comes to mind.

However, recently I've moved away from this technique.

First, if it's not too much trouble, I like the elements of a sweater to line up nicely. I want the decreases/increases to be right next to each other; same for the point where the ribbing ends. So, I take a darning needle threaded with a brand new length of yarn, pick an obvious design element, and start joining there. If things aren't matching up, I pull the thread out - it usually takes just a few tries of two or three stitches each to get a perfect match.

I started doing it this way because so often I'd begin seaming at the cuff of a sweater, and 3 inches later, when I encountered my first increase, I'd see that the two sides were off by 2 stitches. Ug!

I think you can see that the seam will travel in two directions from the "seaming epicenter," so make sure to leave a good length of yarn for both sides.

As I seam, I weave the yarn somewhat loosely through the running threads for about an inch or so, then pull it taut. But not too taught! As I mentioned in section 4, the seaming yarn travels through the edge rather unobstructed. In fact, think of the seaming yarn as a shower rod, with the knit fabric slipping and sliding on it like shower curtain rings. You can imagine crowding the entire shower curtain in one spot, or distributing the width of the curtain unevenly along the length of the rod.

Same with mattress stitch - yank on the seaming thread a bit tightly once, twice, three times, and one sleeve comes out an inch shorter than the other.

Ask me how I know :).

So, returning to the instructions, I weave the seaming yarn through about 1" of fabric, pull the yarn until I sense resistance, then gently tug on the fabric to make sure it's not too tight. Ruching is a fabulous technique, but I'd rather leave it out my sweater seams.

By the way, using an unattached length of yarn to do the seaming is very helpful in achieving the right spring in the seams - both ends are free for pulling, tugging, undoing, etc.

Another reason I enjoy this seaming strategy is because it allows me more control over finishing the edge of the cuff.

When the edge of the cuff is the first thing to be seamed up, it's hard to determine which exact yarn loops need to be joined, and in what order, to give the most invisible result. When approaching the edge from the center of the seam, nothing could be simpler!

In addition to the seaming yarn securing the two sides of the fabric together, I usually use the pattern yarn (tail left over from cast-on) to make a few stitches at the very edge, too. Just to add that last polishing touch.

Postscript Why the hell am I so wordy today? Did you really make it all the way to the end?!? On the plus side, now I have it all written down, for the next time I'm asked about seaming in the comments or e-mails.

Posted by Kathy at 10:47 AM | Comments (71)

February 05, 2007

Closing the Brilliant Retro,

...or how to install a zipper in 168 easy steps.

But first, when we last chatted about knitting, I was on the verge of assembling my Brilliant Retro cardigan. I started by seaming the sides of the sweater using a thin, smooth yarn - as much as I love Classic Silk, it is too thick and nubbly for pulling through all those running threads.

Can you identify the yarn I'm using for seaming? If you're thinking periwinkle by the people who do it best, you've got it!

Now the zipper installation can begin, and my adventures are documented in the extended entry. I must warn you that I have the heart and mind of a perfectionist (but you knew that), and I certainly didn't take the easy way out with this finishing touch. For quick and dirty directions, may I suggest Claudia's tutorial? Absolute quality in every shortcut :).

Okey dokey, I see you're here. Hope you're ready :). Click on the thumbnails for bigger pictures.

After the front pieces of Brilliant Retro dried, I measured the length along the cardi opening. It measured 22". Twenty-two inches. Hmmm... seems a little long. Unless I plan to grow another foot within the next week, 22" will continue to be the distance between my collarbone and my crotch, not between my collarbone and mid-hip.

And then it struck me - this is a close-fitting sweater, and the front pieces will stretch widthwise and shorten lengthwise when the sweater is actually worn! This is exactly the dilemma Carolyn faced with her Olive sweater, except in her case a cardi knit out of thick cotton will get longer when worn.

So how do I go about selecting the right zipper length? I certainly don't want to put a 22" zipper in there. In fact, I'm sure all of us have a store-bought cardigans where the zipper buckles when closed - no, my tummy doesn't protrude sharply from my body, though you'd think so from the picture! It seems to me that's the result of setting in a zipper which is too long for the cardi's fronts once they're actually on and closed!

The choices are simple: (1) use a 22"-long zipper, and the cardi will look perfect when laid out on a flat surface, but wavy on the person, or (2) use a shorter zipper, and it won't buckle when worn, but will probably look crappy as still life.

Hmmm... ;)

I have no interest in making pretty still life.

To determine the proper zipper length, I put on the sweater-in-progress, and pinned it closed. I got a good idea of what it'd look like if I used a bunch of little buttons as recommended in the pattern - no, thanks!

Then I draped a tape measure over my chest, allowing slack for all the curves, and noted the actual length of the opening. Wouldn't you know it - 19.5". I think that if I went with the originally measured 22", the 2.5" difference between the length of the zipper and the length of the cardi fronts would result in major frustration.

I bought a 20" zipper in a cream color (boring - I know), checked that it was functioning fine (always a good idea), and while it was closed, pinned it into place. Considering that my sweater fronts were now longer than the zipper, I used the "divide and conquer" method of distributing the slack - pin the two ends, then the middle, then the middle of the middle, and so on. Of course the zipper looks like shit and a half when displayed on a flat surface, but fortunately I'm not two-dimensional and the sweater is meant to be worn :).

After pinning, I wanted to make sure I was on the right track, so I carefully opened the zipper, put on the sweater, and closed it again. "Carefully" being the operative word - there are lots of pins and zipper teeth, all in one place.

And voilà! No buckling after this rough manipulation!

Now I simply needed to stitch the zipper into place.

I'm not fully competent to give you sewing instructions, but basically, I first attached the outermost edge of the cardi to the zipper backing, using the most invisible stitches I could muster, making sure the knit fabric followed a straight line along the zipper teeth. Although there are many ways to invisibly sew through a knit fabric, the specifics are determined by the yarn, gauge, drape, and selvedges used in the project. Trial and error are an important component here.

Although my first line of stitches was neat and strong enough, I wanted to back the zipper with some grosgrain ribbon - it would seal the entirety of the zipper backing, and add a nice finishing touch. I folded the cream grosgrain (boring - I know) under the bottom edge of the zipper, and stitched it to the zipper backing (not the knit fabric).

When I reached the top of the zipper, I tucked the extra zipper backing under the fold of the grosgrain.

Last, I secured the outside edge of the ribbon with some quick little stitches - didn't want to make those too firm, since this cardigan is meant to stretch over my bust.

Before moving on to the other side of the zipper, I tried on my sweater-in-progress. The lack of buckling is very encouraging indeed :).

And just when I thought, "I'm so close!" I remembered that the sleeves aren't attached yet, and there's a a petite collar-ette to knit. A vest is a wearable thing, no? :)

Posted by Kathy at 11:55 PM | Comments (61)

February 02, 2007

Weird. Who, me?

For a while now I've been entertained with your weird habits, unique talents, and interesting histories thanks to a little meme that's been going around - six weird things about me. I wanted to participate as soon as I read the first few responses, but it's taken me a long while to come up with six noteworthy and appropriate topics.

You see, in my mind there's a thin line between interesting personal tidbits and too much information, especially if the TMI has the potential to make readers uncomfortable (not to mention get you discovered by old boyfriends, the IRS, your psycho neighbor, your boss, etc.). Other knitbloggers strike a balance effortlessly, and I know more about them than most of my friends. Me? I figure why walk a delicate line when I can show my newest project or yarn acquisition? There's so much knitting to talk about that unfolding my personal life isn't even on the radar.

But this meme, it struck me as a challenge. I'm an interesting person, right? Surely I can come up with 6 things about myself that would intrigue my readers, preserve my privacy, and not gross anyone out! For several weeks I jotted down ideas in a little notepad, until I had collected enough to share. So, here it goes.

1. There seems to be disagreement when it comes to our ability to read in dreams. Most say that we can't read while dreaming, or at least we can't read while dreaming deeply. For me, reading and writing in my dreams is a given - as far back as I can remember, I've been reading and writing in my dreams, and sometimes even remembering the specifics when I wake up in the morning. How about you?

2. I'm sure you've heard the question, "Is the glass half empty or half full?" Those who say "half full" are deemed optimists; "half empty," pessimists. But how can we answer without bias? We all grow up knowing about this test and the meaning of the answers before the question is ever presented to us. I'm an exception, it seems. I was 11 years old when my ESL teacher showed a half full glass to the class, and asked us what it was. The 'half full half empty' thing didn't exist in the Ukraine, so I thought it was merely a test of our English skills, nothing subversive. I raised my hand, and firmly answered, "a half full glass of water." Apparently I'm an optimist.

3. I have a thing about flour. Well, technically it's about flouring. Seeing flour is no big deal, touching flour is no big deal, spooning flour into a bowl, sifting, running my hands through it are all okay. But the mere suggestion of flouring something, anything, with one's hands gives me the biggest heebie jeebies imaginable. Shudder! It's multi-sensory, too - the sight, sound, and feeling of this disgusting act all offend me. The details aren't important: whether it's me or someone next to me, or even someone on TV, spreading flour on dough, over a rolling pin, onto a cutting board, gathering up flour bits from the table, it all sends me running to the next room. As long as it involves moving flour over a hard surface with hands, I will feel like vomiting. Gah!

4. Graduate students often have very irregular schedules, especially those of us in the sciences. One day we're running to lab at 11 p.m., and the next we find ourselves waking up at 2 p.m. This leads to watching TV shows otherwise inaccessible to the working crowd. In my case, judge shows. I freakin' love judge shows, and prefer to watch them over anything else given the chance. People's Court with Marilyn Milian is my favorite, followed by Judge Judy, but I'll watch any and all of them. Judge Mathis, Divorce Court with Lynn Toler, Judge Joe Brown, bring it!!! I'll even watch Judge Hatchett when she isn't punishing youngsters by sending them to prisons and such. (some of the new judge shows have yet to impress me, however, including Judge Alex, Cristina Perez, and Judge Maria Lopez. But I'll still watch them).

5. I cannot stand hot food (temperature, not spice). I let my soup cool to room temperature before I'll even touch it, and take my "hot tea" 3/4 boiling water, 1/4 ice cubes, please. Bread fresh out of the oven? No thanks!

6. I collect antique maps, especially ones of the Black Sea (my birthplace). I hunt them down on eBay or at flea/craft markets, then frame them and display them over whatever little wall space I have. The more the map is wrinkled, stained, torn, or otherwise marred, the more I'm drawn to it. (Thanks for the reminder, Maritza!)

Posted by Kathy at 03:55 PM | Comments (51)